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国ç±é•ãˆã°æ‚©ã¿ã‚‚é•ã†: Different nationalities have different problems
Published: 2006/05/23 12:05:47. Tags: Announcements/お知らせ, Travel/旅…
We are at Bishkek in Kyrgyztan. Before coming here we were thinking to go to Khazakstan, but we heard that Kyrgyz is cheaper than Khazak and Psymeg can get Kyrgyz visa at Urumqi in Xinjiang, China. Japanese citizens don't need Kyrgyz visa, so it doesn't matter for me.
And from here we were thinking to go to Uzbekistan, but NZ citizens need LOI (letter of invitation) to get Uzbek visa, Japanese don't need it though...
So now we are thinking to fly to Turkey and then go to Greece, Macedonia and go back to Turkey again and take a ferry to Ukraine, take a train to Russia. And from Moscow we will take the Tranz Syberian Railway to Vladivostok and take a ferry from there to Toyama in Japan. It's third time to change our travel route. Humm...
We came from Kashgar, China via Naryn, Kyrgyz. Naryn is a district capital city but is a really tiny city or town. And most of people are Kyrgyz who look like Mongolian or other Asian people. When we were there, local people greeted Psymeg "Hello" or "How are you?", but they greeted me by saying "Nihao (Hello in Chinese)". Even though they knew that I am Japanese they spoke to me in Chinese. Oh, well...
But in Bishkek a few people consider that Psymeg is a foreign tourist and I am a local Kyrgiz, so sometime when we asked them, they talked to me in Russian. That's interesting.
Psymeg has visa problems and I have cultural identity problems!
ã‚¢ã‚¸ã‚¢æ¨ªæ–æ”¹ã‚シルクãƒãƒ¼ãƒ‰æ¨ªæ–ï¼ Our plan has changed!
Published: 2006/04/29 23:41:34. Tags: Announcements/お知らせ, Travel/旅…
Psymegã‚‚blogã§ãŠçŸ¥ã‚‰ã›ã—ã¦ãŸã®ã§ã“ã¡ã‚‰ã§ã‚‚日本語ã§ã€‚
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Psymegã¯ä»Šæ—¥ã®å¤•方ウイグル人ã®å‹äººã¨ã‚¢ãƒ¡ãƒªã‚«äººã®åŒåƒšã¨å’Œç”°ã¸æ—…ç«‹ã¡ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚ç§ã¯é¢¨é‚ªã‚’ã“ã˜ã‚‰ã›ãŸã®ã§ã€æ¥é€±ã‚«ã‚·ãƒ¥ã‚¬ãƒ«ã¸è¿½ã„ã‹ã‘ã¾ã™ã€‚広ã„アパートã§ä¸€äººã¯å¯‚ã—ã„ã§ã™â€¦ã€‚
This is same announcement as Psymeg's.
Finally we can escape from Chinese food, but we might see CIA (Commonwealth of Independent States) officials demand bribes. And also it's hard for us that cheapest accomodation there cost 10US$ as well as it seems hard to get visas of CIA countries. If it is hard for us to travel, we might escape to India or Thailand. But it is good chance to go to Turkey without by air! If you want to know what we are going on, please check our blog.
And Psymeg has leaved here Korla to Hotan with our Uygur friend and American friend in this evening. I've cought a cold, so will catch them at Kashgar next week. I'm little bit lonely in the wide apartment by myself...
A couple of useful tips for living in Japan – cheap haircuts & the kimono revisited.
Famous cheap hair saloon, '1000-Yen-Cut' in Japan: QB HOUSE (only in Japanese)
If you get your hair cut at a famous hair saloon in Tokyo, it will set you back around ¥6000 and in the countryside it will cost you about ¥3000.
But if you don't care about anything except for the price - like not getting your hair washed or being able to choose who cuts your hair - then I would recommend going to QB House. Many young hairdressers who have just graduated from hair-design or beauty schools and who are really hip work there. Of course most of them cannot speak much English, so I would recommend you to take some photos of how you want your hair done (the stylists at QB house suggested that). When you go in you have to purchase a card for 1000 yen and give it to the hairdresser who will cut your hair. You can find these hair saloons near large stations or big shopping malls.
Cool kimono fabric dresses: Around Shimo-Kitazawa a.k.a. Shimo-Kita
Shimo-Kita is an area in Tokyo popular among cool young people. Shibuya and Harajuku are also fashonable but most people in those places are from the countryside not from Tokyo. Most people in Shimo-Kita live around there, and have their shops there and lots of street performers, rock-bands and theatrical companies are based there. Shimo-Kita is one of real “live†places in Tokyo.
And some of those people create unique fashions. Kimono dress shops are one example of this. These shops can be found around the Shimokitazawa station. They sell skirts, dresses, aloha-shirts, which are made from antique kimono fabric, about 100 years old. Of cource it's expensive (most of them cost over US$100) but it's worth the price. If you don't find what you like, you can get something made. You should choose your favourite fabric and tell the young tailer what kind of patterns you like. After around a week, your original dress will be ready. Also you can get antique recycled kimono at such shops.
In my travelogue about heading to the Silk Road, I included some advice about travel and living in Japan, Korea and China so I thought I would gather them together in this post along with some additions.

The Nihon-kai (Japan Sea) Sleeper Train / Related post
The Nihonkai is the sleeper train that runs between Aomori (the northen most prefecture on the main island of Japan - Honshu) and Osaka along Japan Sea coast – passing through the prefectures of Akita, Yamagata, Niigata, Toyama, Ishikawa, Shiga and Kyoto. This train runs both ways twice a day. B-sleepers (B-shindai), which have cabins with upper and lower beds and storage above the corridor are the cheapest. They isn't a restaurant cars, so you should take some snacks or food with you.
Aomori ~ Osaka: 14 and half hours / ¥21740 (about US$186)
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Useful Japanese railway ticket: Seishun 18 Kippu (ticket) / Related post
Most foreign travellers to Japan know about The Japan Rail Pass, but if you want to travel more cheaply by train in Japan then the Seishun 18 Kippu might just be for you.
This lets you can take local (futsu普通 or kakuekiå„é§… in Japanese) and rapid (kaisoku快速 in Japanese) trains for any 5 days during the school holiday for only 11500 yen (less than US$100) anywhere in Japan on JR lines. Be careful though as there are a number of railway operators in Japan and this ticket is only valid on JR lines. Local trains in Tokyo and the Osaka area are always crowded, but once you escape from the city, you can relax and enjoy your train journey. You can also take rapid night trains, which run specially during school holidays. If you want to take these trains, you will need to make a reservation.
*Moonlight Nagara (daily): Tokyo - Nagoya - Ogaki (near Kyoto)
*Moonlight Echigo (daily): Shinjuku (Tokyo) - Niigata
*Moonlight Kyushu (daily during school holidays):
Shin-Osaka (Osaka) - Hakata (Fukuoka, top of southern island)
*Moonlight Matsuyama (daily during school holidays):
Kyoto - Matsuyama (Ehime, western Shikoku island)
*Moonlight Kochi (daily during school holidays):
Kyoto - Kochi (southern Shikoku island)
*Moonlight Shinsyu (mainly every Friday during school holidays):
Shinjuku - Hakuba (northern Nagano, famous for ski fields near Tokyo area)
*Gelande Zao (every Friday during school holidays):
Ofuna (Kamakura, near Yokohama) - Yamagata (northern Honshuu, famous for good ski fields)
In the middle of August, over New Years and when some big events are on, like summer rock festivals such as Fuji Rock, in the countryside or Comi-ke (comic markets - anime geek events held every summer and winter) in Tokyo, the trains will probably be booked out, so if you can, you should book early. You can book up to one month in advance. Timetable search engine
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Ferries from/to Japan / Related post
Japan National Tourist Organization
Japan Cycling Navigator
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Ferry between Osaka and Pusan, Korea: Panstar Ferry
(No English website / Japanese website) / Related post
Operated by a Korean company.
From Osaka: 16:00 on Mon, Wed, Fri
From Pusan (Busan): 16:00 on Tue, Thu, Sun
Docks at 10:00am the next day.
*Booking Phone Numbers:
Osaka:+81-6-6271-8830
Seoul:+82-2-775-6811
Pusan:+82-51-462-5482
The ferry terminal in Osaka is located near the Cosmo-Square station on the Chuo subway line.
You can take a free shuttle bus from the station to the terminal from 11:20am to 2:20pm.
The cheapest ticket - Standard Room costs ¥13700 (about 117US$) one way. Return tickets are discounted 20%, Student discount is 20%, and online booking discount is 5% (you cannot pay by credit card if you book on line).
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Ferry between Kobe and Tianjin, China: Yanjing Ferry (English website)
/ Psymeg took this ferry to China.
Run by a Chinese company.
From Kobe: 12:00 every Friday
From Tianjin: 11:00 every Monday
Arrives at 2:00pm on the second day after the day of departure.
This company is more serious than the Panstar Ferry Company, like their website, booking reply etc. Please check the website in detail. Lots of interesting pictures of the ferry, like heaps of empty beer bottles on the deck, can be found on the company blog (in Japanese)
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22/09/05 (Thu) Urumqi, and Korla... (Ending of this episodes)

We dumped our backpack at the People's Park and when we sit down on the bench, we saw many tents for 2 or 3 people there. In Japan some homeless people live in their tents at the park but these tents were there keeping each distance and noone seemed in the tents, so for me it was very strange. When we were eating fruits and cheking the guidebook, elder woman walking around there was talking me something while pointing the tents. When we saw a few of couples were enter and get out from the tents, we roughly solved the mystery. These tents looked like for dating couples making love. The elder woman looked like a these caretaker. Hmm... In China you can make money everything.
The public toilets in the park had no doors, which I had ever heard before. It was first time for me but luckily noone were there so I went to the toilet normally. I felt the Silk Road of inner China more.
It was early in the evening and we weren't that hungry, but we thought that we should grab something to eat before catching the bus, so we had decided to look for a restaurant. Psymeg had been eating oily Chinese food, which he had seldom ate in New Zealand and Japan, for a month, so wanted to eat light Japanese food or pizza or pasta, which he was used to having, so we tried to find a Japanese or Western restaurant. However not only is the centre of Urumqi spread out but also there is little infomation in our Japanese guidebook.
While wandering around, we saw a couple of laowaiè€å¤– talking at the foot of a building. When we smiled at them and they smiled back at us, so we talked them. One of them was Canadian, studying Uyghur in Urumqi, and the other one seemed to be their Uyghur friend. But he looked a bit like he was a hippy so at first I thought he was also Westerner. They gave us some good tips about restaurants in Urumqi, like how you can eat curry and rice at one Japanese restaurant and that there is a Pakistani restaurant which sometimes has vegetarian meals etc. We decided to go to the closest Japanese restaurant that they suggested. (By the way, last January we met them again at the Fubar, which is a legendary hangout for foreigners living in Urumqi, which was really cool).
We arrived at the Japanese restaurant which looked just like Japanese restaurants in Europe or other western countries. The restaurant is next to a Brazilian restaurant. Refering to my Chinese phrasebook and the menu, we ordered some sushi and vegetarian tempura as well as my favourite Japanese plum liqueur. Of cource the price was really expensive compared with your average bog-standard Chinese restaurant, but we had no idea when we would be able to eat Japanese food again, so we didn't worry about the price and just enjoyed the food. In the restaurant they were showing a video of the Japanese New Years Red and White music show so while listening to cheesy J-pop, I drank Japanese liqueur on the Silk Road. It was a really strange combination.
Time for our depature was drawing close so we hurried to the supermarket, where we had heard that once we can purchase cheese (because in Korla you can only find Chinese sliced cheese and cream cheese), and after buying some expensive New Zealand cheese from Hong Kong, we hailed a taxi to take us to the bus terminal.
At the bus terminal several guys who looked like they possibly were conductors asked us to show them our tickets, and when we showed them, one of them guided us to our Korla bound bus. It was first time for me to take a sleeping bus, but I am small so it was not so uncomfortable, but for psymeg it was small.
When all the passangers had boarded the bus, the bus pulled out at 9 o'clock right on schedule. Three hours later, the bus stopped for a welcome supper break. The toilet was the backyard of the restaurant. Both the female and male looked for a good place and releived themselves. After that the bus arrived in Korla before sunrise at 4am. We had arrived at our place on the Silk Road, the first time for me, and we soon went to sleep. The sun would rise and our life in the Silk Road would start.
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*Japanese restaurant we went to:
江戸之櫻 JiangHuZhiYing (Edo no Sakura in Japanese)
The restaurant's website (in Japanese and Chinese)
*Japanese restaurant with Japanese style curry and rice:
平政 PingZheng (Hiramasa in Japanese), 3rd floor of the City Hotel at Hongqi St.
The restaurant's website (in Japanese)(in Chinese)
Both restaurants seem to be managed by the same company.
*Westeners hangout in Urumqi: fubar
5 minutes walk from the northern gate of the People's Park (departure point of the one-day tours) on Northern People's Park St. Owned by a Kiwi, Irish, Japanese and Chinese.
The only place we have found where one can eat non-Chinese style pizza (including such treats as melted rich cheese and black olives) in Xinjiang. Also good fish'n'chips. Basically it is a bar so not so much in the way of food, things are a little pricey, but considering the atmosphere and all it is well worth it.
The staff and the regulars know a lot about Xinjiang, and travel in this province and they are really helpful.
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22/09/05 (Thu) Urumqi Touchdown
We arrived at the Shenyang沈阳 airport just past 7am, paid 200 yuan to the driver, and checked in at the counter. After spending some time in the departure lobby, we went through the security check and waited some more in the boarding lobby. Except for one white guy, who looked neat and clean and was with a Chinese-looking guide, there were only Chinese business people and tourists waiting there.
We boarded the plane at the scheduled time and took off from Shenyang. Despite what I was expecting, the seats were almost full. Psymeg soon fell asleep and didn't eat his flight meal. I didn't expect to get a meal because I am vegetarian, but they gave me a muslim meal and because the main dish was meat I ate what I could.
When we arrived in Lanzhouå…°å·ž, half of passangers got off the plane and the rest of us got transit passes, and went to the airport b
blizzardboy