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psymeg & chooch:


I'm Japanese, and my husband is a Kiwi. We're vegetarian and love to travel.



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おいしいいです


Published: 2006/08/31 08:39:07. Tags: Foods/食

世界の一番羞味しい料理はなんでしょうか。パスタかな。。。


We are at Bishkek in Kyrgyztan. Before coming here we were thinking to go to Khazakstan, but we heard that Kyrgyz is cheaper than Khazak and Psymeg can get Kyrgyz visa at Urumqi in Xinjiang, China. Japanese citizens don't need Kyrgyz visa, so it doesn't matter for me.

And from here we were thinking to go to Uzbekistan, but NZ citizens need LOI (letter of invitation) to get Uzbek visa, Japanese don't need it though...

So now we are thinking to fly to Turkey and then go to Greece, Macedonia and go back to Turkey again and take a ferry to Ukraine, take a train to Russia. And from Moscow we will take the Tranz Syberian Railway to Vladivostok and take a ferry from there to Toyama in Japan. It's third time to change our travel route. Humm...

We came from Kashgar, China via Naryn, Kyrgyz. Naryn is a district capital city but is a really tiny city or town. And most of people are Kyrgyz who look like Mongolian or other Asian people. When we were there, local people greeted Psymeg "Hello" or "How are you?", but they greeted me by saying "Nihao (Hello in Chinese)". Even though they knew that I am Japanese they spoke to me in Chinese. Oh, well...

But in Bishkek a few people consider that Psymeg is a foreign tourist and I am a local Kyrgiz, so sometime when we asked them, they talked to me in Russian. That's interesting.

Psymeg has visa problems and I have cultural identity problems!


Psymegもblogでお知らせしてたのでこちらでも日本語で。

今までアジア横断を目指してここで生活してきた私達ですが、パキスタンへの国境は最近中国側でパキスタンビザを持ってない人が止められた情報が多いので、パキスタン行きを断念!最初は西チベットを通ってネパール入りも考えましたが、新疆からだと標高がいきなり高くなる上、公安に見つかって罰金支払うのも大変ですし、最近ネパール情勢いろいろ大変ですし、そもそもそんなにチベット興味ないですし…。で、残された道が…カザフスタンビザをウルムチで取得して、カザフスタン入り。じゃあ、そのままシルクロード横断は?って事で、中央アジア、カフカス経由してトルコの地中海を目指す旅に決定しました。つい4日前。

ようやく中華料理から開放されますが、今度は役人の賄賂攻撃に遭いそうです。更に、ビザの取得もかなり大変そうだし、宿代が一番安くて10$はキツい…。ホントにシンドくなったら、インドやタイに逃げるかも知れません。でも、せっかくだから陸路と航路だけでトルコ目指したい!どうなるかは今後のブログで確認下さい。

Psymegは今日の夕方ウイグル人の友人とアメリカ人の同僚と和田へ旅立ちました。私は風邪をこじらせたので、来週カシュガルへ追いかけます。広いアパートで一人は寂しいです…。

This is same announcement as Psymeg's.
Finally we can escape from Chinese food, but we might see CIA (Commonwealth of Independent States) officials demand bribes. And also it's hard for us that cheapest accomodation there cost 10US$ as well as it seems hard to get visas of CIA countries. If it is hard for us to travel, we might escape to India or Thailand. But it is good chance to go to Turkey without by air! If you want to know what we are going on, please check our blog.

And Psymeg has leaved here Korla to Hotan with our Uygur friend and American friend in this evening. I've cought a cold, so will catch them at Kashgar next week. I'm little bit lonely in the wide apartment by myself...


Tips for living in Japan


Published: 2006/04/29 23:35:00. Tags: Japan/日本

A couple of useful tips for living in Japan – cheap haircuts & the kimono revisited.

Famous cheap hair saloon, '1000-Yen-Cut' in Japan: QB HOUSE (only in Japanese)

If you get your hair cut at a famous hair saloon in Tokyo, it will set you back around ¥6000 and in the countryside it will cost you about ¥3000.
But if you don't care about anything except for the price - like not getting your hair washed or being able to choose who cuts your hair - then I would recommend going to QB House. Many young hairdressers who have just graduated from hair-design or beauty schools and who are really hip work there. Of course most of them cannot speak much English, so I would recommend you to take some photos of how you want your hair done (the stylists at QB house suggested that). When you go in you have to purchase a card for 1000 yen and give it to the hairdresser who will cut your hair. You can find these hair saloons near large stations or big shopping malls.

Cool kimono fabric dresses: Around Shimo-Kitazawa a.k.a. Shimo-Kita
Shimo-Kita is an area in Tokyo popular among cool young people. Shibuya and Harajuku are also fashonable but most people in those places are from the countryside not from Tokyo. Most people in Shimo-Kita live around there, and have their shops there and lots of street performers, rock-bands and theatrical companies are based there. Shimo-Kita is one of real “live” places in Tokyo.
And some of those people create unique fashions. Kimono dress shops are one example of this. These shops can be found around the Shimokitazawa station. They sell skirts, dresses, aloha-shirts, which are made from antique kimono fabric, about 100 years old. Of cource it's expensive (most of them cost over US$100) but it's worth the price. If you don't find what you like, you can get something made. You should choose your favourite fabric and tell the young tailer what kind of patterns you like. After around a week, your original dress will be ready. Also you can get antique recycled kimono at such shops.


Japanese travel tips


Published: 2006/04/26 01:40:42. Tags: Japan/日本, Travel/旅…

In my travelogue about heading to the Silk Road, I included some advice about travel and living in Japan, Korea and China so I thought I would gather them together in this post along with some additions.

The Nihon-kai (Japan Sea) Sleeper Train / Related post
The Nihonkai is the sleeper train that runs between Aomori (the northen most prefecture on the main island of Japan - Honshu) and Osaka along Japan Sea coast – passing through the prefectures of Akita, Yamagata, Niigata, Toyama, Ishikawa, Shiga and Kyoto. This train runs both ways twice a day. B-sleepers (B-shindai), which have cabins with upper and lower beds and storage above the corridor are the cheapest. They isn't a restaurant cars, so you should take some snacks or food with you.
Aomori ~ Osaka: 14 and half hours / ¥21740 (about US$186)

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Useful Japanese railway ticket: Seishun 18 Kippu (ticket) / Related post
Most foreign travellers to Japan know about The Japan Rail Pass, but if you want to travel more cheaply by train in Japan then the Seishun 18 Kippu might just be for you.
This lets you can take local (futsu普通 or kakueki各駅 in Japanese) and rapid (kaisoku快速 in Japanese) trains for any 5 days during the school holiday for only 11500 yen (less than US$100) anywhere in Japan on JR lines. Be careful though as there are a number of railway operators in Japan and this ticket is only valid on JR lines. Local trains in Tokyo and the Osaka area are always crowded, but once you escape from the city, you can relax and enjoy your train journey. You can also take rapid night trains, which run specially during school holidays. If you want to take these trains, you will need to make a reservation.

*Moonlight Nagara (daily): Tokyo - Nagoya - Ogaki (near Kyoto)
*Moonlight Echigo (daily): Shinjuku (Tokyo) - Niigata
*Moonlight Kyushu (daily during school holidays):
Shin-Osaka (Osaka) - Hakata (Fukuoka, top of southern island)
*Moonlight Matsuyama (daily during school holidays):
Kyoto - Matsuyama (Ehime, western Shikoku island)
*Moonlight Kochi (daily during school holidays):
Kyoto - Kochi (southern Shikoku island)
*Moonlight Shinsyu (mainly every Friday during school holidays):
Shinjuku - Hakuba (northern Nagano, famous for ski fields near Tokyo area)
*Gelande Zao (every Friday during school holidays):
Ofuna (Kamakura, near Yokohama) - Yamagata (northern Honshuu, famous for good ski fields)

In the middle of August, over New Years and when some big events are on, like summer rock festivals such as Fuji Rock, in the countryside or Comi-ke (comic markets - anime geek events held every summer and winter) in Tokyo, the trains will probably be booked out, so if you can, you should book early. You can book up to one month in advance. Timetable search engine

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Ferries from/to Japan / Related post
Japan National Tourist Organization
Japan Cycling Navigator

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Ferry between Osaka and Pusan, Korea: Panstar Ferry
(No English website / Japanese website) / Related post
Operated by a Korean company.
From Osaka: 16:00 on Mon, Wed, Fri
From Pusan (Busan): 16:00 on Tue, Thu, Sun
Docks at 10:00am the next day.
*Booking Phone Numbers:
Osaka:+81-6-6271-8830
Seoul:+82-2-775-6811
Pusan:+82-51-462-5482

The ferry terminal in Osaka is located near the Cosmo-Square station on the Chuo subway line.
You can take a free shuttle bus from the station to the terminal from 11:20am to 2:20pm.
The cheapest ticket - Standard Room costs ¥13700 (about 117US$) one way. Return tickets are discounted 20%, Student discount is 20%, and online booking discount is 5% (you cannot pay by credit card if you book on line).

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Ferry between Kobe and Tianjin, China: Yanjing Ferry (English website)
/ Psymeg took this ferry to China.
Run by a Chinese company.
From Kobe: 12:00 every Friday
From Tianjin: 11:00 every Monday
Arrives at 2:00pm on the second day after the day of departure.

This company is more serious than the Panstar Ferry Company, like their website, booking reply etc. Please check the website in detail. Lots of interesting pictures of the ferry, like heaps of empty beer bottles on the deck, can be found on the company blog (in Japanese)


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人民公園でバックパックを降ろし、ベンチに腰枛けると目の前には2,3äººç”¨ã®ãƒ†ãƒ³ãƒˆãŒä½•å€‹ã‚‚å¼µã‚‰ã‚Œã¦ã„ãŸã€‚æ—¥æœ¬ã§ã‚‚å…¬åœ’ã§ãƒ†ãƒ³ãƒˆæš®ã‚‰ã—ã‚’ã™ã‚‹ãƒ›ãƒ¼ãƒ ãƒ¬ã‚¹ã¯ã„ã‚‹ãŒã€ã“ã‚“ãªã«ãŸãã•ã‚“ã®æ•°ã§ç¶ºéº—ã«é–“éš”ã‚’ç½®ã„ã¦å¼µã‚‰ã‚Œã¦ã„ãªãŒã‚‰ã€äººæ°—ãŒå…¨ãæ„Ÿã˜ã‚‰ã‚Œãªã„ãƒ†ãƒ³ãƒˆã¯ç§ã«ã¨ã£ã¦ã¨ã¦ã‚‚å¥‡å¦™ã§ã‚ã£ãŸã€‚æ—¦é‚£ã¨äºŒäººã§æžœç‰©ã‚’é£Ÿã¹ãŸã‚Šã€ã‚¬ã‚¤ãƒ‰ãƒ–ãƒƒã‚¯ã‚’è¦‹ã¦ã„ã‚‹ã¨ã€å‘¨è¾ºã‚’æ­©ã„ã¦ã„ãŸãŠã°ã•ã‚“ãŒãƒ†ãƒ³ãƒˆã‚’æŒ‡å·®ã—ãªãŒã‚‰ç§é”ã«ä½•ã‹è©±ã—ã‹ã‘ã¦ããŸã€‚æ•°çµ„ã®ç”·å¥³ãŒå‡ºå…¥ã‚Šã™ã‚‹ã®ã‚’è¦‹ãŸã¨ã“ã‚ã§ã€ã‚ˆã†ã‚„ãè¬žãŒã²ã‚‚è§£ã‘ã¦ããŸã€‚ã“ã®ãƒ†ãƒ³ãƒˆç¾¤ã¯ã€ãƒ‡ãƒ¼ãƒˆä¸­ã®ã‚«ãƒƒãƒ—ãƒ«ãŒæ„›ã‚’ç¢ºã‹ã‚ã‚‹å ´æ‰€ã‚‰ã—ã„ã€‚ãŠã°ã•ã‚“ã¯ãã®ãƒ†ãƒ³ãƒˆã®ç®¡ç†äººã®ã‚ˆã†ã€‚ãªã‚‹ã»ã©ã€ä¸­å›½ã¯ä½•ã§ã‚‚é‡‘ã«ãªã‚‹å›½ã§ã‚ã‚‹ã€‚
公園内のトイレは、噂に聞いた扉がないトイレだった。初めてだったが、運良く誰もいなかったので、普通に用を済ませた。中国内陸部のシルクロードを更に実感させた。

夕方前で特に腹も空いていなかったが、夜バスに乗る前に食事を取っておいた方がいいので、レストラン枢す事にした。旦那はニュージーランドでも日本でも滅多に食べなかった油っこい中華料理を1ãƒ¶æœˆé–“ã‚‚é£Ÿã¹ã¦ã„ãŸã®ã§ã€ã‚ã£ã•ã‚Šã—ãŸæ—¥æœ¬æ–™ç†ã‹é£Ÿã¹æ…£ã‚ŒãŸãƒ”ã‚¶ã‚„ãƒ‘ã‚¹ã‚¿ãŒé£Ÿã¹ãŸã„ã¨ã„ã†äº‹ã§å’Œé£Ÿãƒ¬ã‚¹ãƒˆãƒ©ãƒ³ã‹æ´‹é£Ÿãƒ¬ã‚¹ãƒˆãƒ©ãƒ³ã‚’æž¢ã™ã‚‚ã‚¦ãƒ«ãƒ ãƒã®ç¹è¯è¡—ã¯åºƒã„ä¸Šã€æ—¥æœ¬ã®ã‚¬ã‚¤ãƒ‰ãƒ–ãƒƒã‚¯ã«ã¯å…¨ãæƒ…å ±ãŒãªã‹ã£ãŸã€‚é€”æ–¹ã«æš®ã‚Œã¦æ­©ãå‡ºã™ã¨ã€ç™½äººã®è‹¥è€…ã‚‰ãŒãƒ“ãƒ«ã®ä¸‹ã§è«‡ç¬‘ã—ã¦ã„ãŸã€‚ã“ã¡ã‚‰ãŒå¾®ç¬‘ã‚€ã¨ã‚ã¡ã‚‰ã‚‚ç¬‘é¡”ã‚’è¿”ã—ã¦ããŸã®ã§ã€è©±ã—ã‹ã‘ã¦ã¿ãŸã€‚2äººã®ã‚«ãƒƒãƒ—ãƒ«ã¯ã‚¦ãƒ«ãƒ ãƒã§ã‚¦ã‚¤ã‚°ãƒ«èªžã‚’å‹‰å¼·ã—ã¦ã„ã‚‹ã‚«ãƒŠãƒ€äººã§ã€ã‚‚ã†ä¸€äººã¯ã‚¦ã‚¤ã‚°ãƒ«äººã®å‹äººã®ã‚ˆã†ã ã£ãŸã€‚ã—ã‹ã—ã€å½¼ã®æœè£…ãŒã‚µã‚¤ã‚±ãƒ‡ãƒªãƒƒã‚¯ã‹ã¤ãƒ­ãƒƒã‚¯ã ã£ãŸã®ã§ã€æœ€åˆã¯æ¬§ç±³äººã‹ã¨æ€ã£ãŸã€‚æ—¥æœ¬æ–™ç†åº—ã§ã¯ã‚«ãƒ¬ãƒ¼ãƒ©ã‚¤ã‚¹ãŒé£Ÿã¹ã‚‰ã‚Œã‚‹ã¨ã‹ã€ãƒ‘ã‚­ã‚¹ã‚¿ãƒ³æ–™ç†åº—ã‚‚ã‚ã‚‹ãŒã€ãƒ™ã‚¸ã‚¿ãƒªã‚¢ãƒ³å‘ãã®æ–™ç†ãŒæ™‚ã€…ã‚ã‚‹ã‹ã‚‚çŸ¥ã‚Œãªã„ãªã©ã„ã‚ã„ã‚æƒ…å ±ã‚’æ•™ãˆã¦ã‚‚ã‚‰ã„ã€ãã“ã‹ã‚‰ä¸€ç•ªè¿‘ãã†ãªæ—¥æœ¬æ–™ç†åº—ã¸å‘ã‹ã†äº‹ã«ã—ãŸï¼ˆä½™è«‡ã ãŒã€ä»Šå¹´ã®1æœˆã«å½¼ã‚‰ã¨ã¯ã‚¦ãƒ«ãƒ ãƒåœ¨ä½æ¬§ç±³äººã®æºœã‚Šå ´ã€fubarで再会した)。

è¾¿ã‚Šç€ãã¨ã€ãã“ã¯ãƒ–ãƒ©ã‚¸ãƒ«æ–™ç†åº—ã«éš£æž¥ã—ã¦ã„ã¦æ¬§ç±³ã§ã‚‚ã‚ˆãè¦‹ã‹ã‘ã‚‹ã‚¿ã‚¤ãƒ—ã®æ—¥æœ¬æ–™ç†åº—ã ã£ãŸã€‚ä¼šè©±é›†ã¨ãƒ¡ãƒ‹ãƒ¥ãƒ¼ã‚’ã«ã‚‰ã‚ã£ã“ã—ãªãŒã‚‰ã€ã‹ã£ã±ã‚„ãŠã—ã‚“ã“ã¨ã„ã£ãŸå·»ãå¯¿å¸ã¨ç²¾é€²æšã’ã‚’æ•°å“ã¨ã€æ¢…é…’ã‚‚ã‚ã£ãŸã®ã§ã€æ¢…é…’å¥½ãã®ç§ã¯æ—©é€Ÿæ³¨æ–‡ã—ãŸã€‚å‹¿è«–å€¤æ®µã¯æ™®é€šã®ä¸­å›½ã®é£Ÿå ‚ã®ä½•å€ã‚‚ã™ã‚‹ã®ã ãŒã€æ¬¡ã¯ã„ã¤é£Ÿã¹ã‚‰ã‚Œã‚‹ã‹åˆ†ã‹ã‚‰ãªã„ã®ã§ã€ã“ã“ã¯å¤§æžšå©ã„ã¦äºŒäººã§è±ªå‹¢ã«æ—¥æœ¬æ–™ç†ã‚’æ¥½ã—ã‚€äº‹ã«ã—ãŸã€‚åº—å†…ã®ãƒ†ãƒ¬ãƒ“ã§ã¯å¹´è¶Šã—ã®ç´…ç™½æ­Œåˆæˆ¦ã®ãƒ“ãƒ‡ã‚ªãŒæ”¾æ˜ ã•ã‚Œã¦ã„ãŸã€‚ã‚ã‚†ã®ç†±å”±ã‚’è´ããªãŒã‚‰ã€ã‚·ãƒ«ã‚¯ãƒ­ãƒ¼ãƒ‰ã§æ¢…é…’ã‚’ä¹¾æ¯ã€‚ä½•ã¨ã‚‚ä¸æ€è­°ãªçµ„ã¿åˆã‚ã›ã§ã‚ã‚‹ã€‚

バスの時間もそろそろだったので、チーズが売ってあると聞いたスーパーへ急ぞ(コルラには中国製スライスチーズとクリームチーズしか売っていないため)、ニュージーランド製で香港から輸入した高価なチーズを急いで購入した後、タクシーへ乗り込み、バスターミナルへ向かった。

数人の車枌らしき男性達に乗車券を見せろと言われ、見せるとコルラ行きバスの車枌らしき男性が「こっちだ、こっちだ」と連れて行き、バスに乗り込んだ。初めての寝台バスだったが、体の小さい私はそれ程乗り心地は悪くなかったが、旦那は窮屈そうだった。
乗客が全員乗るとほぼ定時の夜9時に出発。発車から3æ™‚é–“ç¨‹çµŒéžã—ãŸæ‰€ã§ã€é£Ÿäº‹ä¼‘æ†©ã€‚ãƒ‰ãƒ©ã‚¤ãƒ–ã‚¤ãƒ³é£Ÿå ‚ã®è£åº­å…¨ã¦ãŒãƒˆã‚¤ãƒ¬ã€‚ç”·å¥³ã¨ã‚‚å ´æ‰€ã‚’æž¢ã—ã¦ç”¨ã‚’è¶³ã™ã€‚ãã®å¾Œå‡ºç™ºã—ãŸãƒã‚¹ã¯ã¾ã å¤œã‚‚æ˜žã‘ã¬æœ4時に到着。タクシーで初めて辿り着いたシルクロードの我が家へ到着し、ベッドに横になった。太陽が昇り始めたら、私のシルクロード生活が始まる。

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*私達が行った日本料理店:江戸之櫻(お店のホームページ)
*カレーライスがある日本料理店:平政(お店のホームページ)
どちらも系列が一緒のようです。

ï¼Šã‚¦ãƒ«ãƒ ãƒåœ¨ä½æ¬§ç±³äººã®æºœã‚Šå ´ï¼šfubar
人民公園北側入口(日帰りツアー出発地)から裏の人民公園北路沿い徒歩5分以内。
ニュージーランド人、アイルランド人、日本人、中国人が経営する欧米スタイルのバー。新疆で中華風でないピザ(もっちりチーズにブラックオリーブなどのトッピング)に出会えるお店。皮付きフライドポテトも羞味。他のメニューはあまり充実していないが、基本的にバーなのでお酒の種類は豊富。某日本ビールもあり。値段も高いが、お店の雰囲気なども含めて高いだけの価値あり。
ãŠåº—ã®äººé”ã‚‚å¸¸é€£ã•ã‚“é”ã‚‚åŸºæœ¬çš„ã«ä»–äººã«å¹²æ¸‰ã—ãªã„ãŒã€æ–°ç–†æ—…æƒ…å ±ã‚‚ã„ã‚ã„ã‚çŸ¥ã£ã¦ã„ã‚‹äººé”ãŒå¤šã„ã®ã§ã€ã˜ã‚ƒã‚“ã˜ã‚ƒã‚“ä¼šè©±ã«ã‚‚ä¹—ã£ã¦ãã‚Œã‚‹ã®ã§ã€ãƒžã‚¤ãƒšãƒ¼ã‚¹ã§æ¥½ã—ã‚ã‚‹ã€‚


Heading to the Silk Road Part 20


Published: 2006/04/21 03:20:20. Tags: Foods/食, Travelogue

22/09/05 (Thu) Urumqi, and Korla... (Ending of this episodes)

We dumped our backpack at the People's Park and when we sit down on the bench, we saw many tents for 2 or 3 people there. In Japan some homeless people live in their tents at the park but these tents were there keeping each distance and noone seemed in the tents, so for me it was very strange. When we were eating fruits and cheking the guidebook, elder woman walking around there was talking me something while pointing the tents. When we saw a few of couples were enter and get out from the tents, we roughly solved the mystery. These tents looked like for dating couples making love. The elder woman looked like a these caretaker. Hmm... In China you can make money everything.
The public toilets in the park had no doors, which I had ever heard before. It was first time for me but luckily noone were there so I went to the toilet normally. I felt the Silk Road of inner China more.

It was early in the evening and we weren't that hungry, but we thought that we should grab something to eat before catching the bus, so we had decided to look for a restaurant. Psymeg had been eating oily Chinese food, which he had seldom ate in New Zealand and Japan, for a month, so wanted to eat light Japanese food or pizza or pasta, which he was used to having, so we tried to find a Japanese or Western restaurant. However not only is the centre of Urumqi spread out but also there is little infomation in our Japanese guidebook.

While wandering around, we saw a couple of laowai老外 talking at the foot of a building. When we smiled at them and they smiled back at us, so we talked them. One of them was Canadian, studying Uyghur in Urumqi, and the other one seemed to be their Uyghur friend. But he looked a bit like he was a hippy so at first I thought he was also Westerner. They gave us some good tips about restaurants in Urumqi, like how you can eat curry and rice at one Japanese restaurant and that there is a Pakistani restaurant which sometimes has vegetarian meals etc. We decided to go to the closest Japanese restaurant that they suggested. (By the way, last January we met them again at the Fubar, which is a legendary hangout for foreigners living in Urumqi, which was really cool).

We arrived at the Japanese restaurant which looked just like Japanese restaurants in Europe or other western countries. The restaurant is next to a Brazilian restaurant. Refering to my Chinese phrasebook and the menu, we ordered some sushi and vegetarian tempura as well as my favourite Japanese plum liqueur. Of cource the price was really expensive compared with your average bog-standard Chinese restaurant, but we had no idea when we would be able to eat Japanese food again, so we didn't worry about the price and just enjoyed the food. In the restaurant they were showing a video of the Japanese New Years Red and White music show so while listening to cheesy J-pop, I drank Japanese liqueur on the Silk Road. It was a really strange combination.

Time for our depature was drawing close so we hurried to the supermarket, where we had heard that once we can purchase cheese (because in Korla you can only find Chinese sliced cheese and cream cheese), and after buying some expensive New Zealand cheese from Hong Kong, we hailed a taxi to take us to the bus terminal.

At the bus terminal several guys who looked like they possibly were conductors asked us to show them our tickets, and when we showed them, one of them guided us to our Korla bound bus. It was first time for me to take a sleeping bus, but I am small so it was not so uncomfortable, but for psymeg it was small.

When all the passangers had boarded the bus, the bus pulled out at 9 o'clock right on schedule. Three hours later, the bus stopped for a welcome supper break. The toilet was the backyard of the restaurant. Both the female and male looked for a good place and releived themselves. After that the bus arrived in Korla before sunrise at 4am. We had arrived at our place on the Silk Road, the first time for me, and we soon went to sleep. The sun would rise and our life in the Silk Road would start.

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*Japanese restaurant we went to:
江戸之櫻 JiangHuZhiYing (Edo no Sakura in Japanese)
The restaurant's website (in Japanese and Chinese)
*Japanese restaurant with Japanese style curry and rice:
平政 PingZheng (Hiramasa in Japanese), 3rd floor of the City Hotel at Hongqi St.
The restaurant's website (in Japanese)(in Chinese)
Both restaurants seem to be managed by the same company.

*Westeners hangout in Urumqi: fubar
5 minutes walk from the northern gate of the People's Park (departure point of the one-day tours) on Northern People's Park St. Owned by a Kiwi, Irish, Japanese and Chinese.
The only place we have found where one can eat non-Chinese style pizza (including such treats as melted rich cheese and black olives) in Xinjiang. Also good fish'n'chips. Basically it is a bar so not so much in the way of food, things are a little pricey, but considering the atmosphere and all it is well worth it.
The staff and the regulars know a lot about Xinjiang, and travel in this province and they are really helpful.


2005年9月22日(木)ウルムチ到着
瀋陽空港に到着したのは7時を回った頃だった。約束の200元を払い、カウンターでチェックインを済ませた。時間を潰した後、セキュリティーチェックを通遞し、搭乗口で更に時間を潰す。1人の中国人の通訳らしき女性を伴ったこぞれいな白人男性以外は中国人らしきビジネスマンや観光客らが周りに座っていた。

定時の搭乗時間に私達は機内に乗り込み、瀋陽を出発した。私の予想と反して機内は殆ど席が埋まっていた。旦那はすぐに眠りに就き、機内食にも手を付けなかった。私は予想外の機内食だったが、ベジタリアンなのでイスラム食の肉料理がメインの機内食は食べられる料理にだけ手を付けた。

経由地の蘭州に到着すると、半数の乗客が飛行機を降り、私達を含む残りの乗客も経由搭乗券を渡され、シャトルバスで空港まで行き、30分程待った。甘粛省の省都、蘭州の空港ロビーから見えた乾いた岩の丘がシルクロードを感じさせた。

蘭州から再度離陸した飛行機は2時間も経たないうちにウルムチに到着。遂に新疆の首府、ウルムチに私は降り立った。空港は日本の地方都市の空港ような雰囲気なのだが、日本のそれと違うのは荷物用のベルトコンベア横に並ぶツアー会社の呼び込み窓口である。横切る観光客らにしきりにパンフレットを振りかざし、「弊社のツアーはいかがですか?」という感じで、あちらこちらから大声で叫んでいる。

空港から出て、先ずコルラ行きのバスが発着するバスターミナルを目指す。空港からはバス等一切発着していないので、タクシーに乗らざるを得ない。しかし、これが強者である。

私達が空港出口から乗った漢民族のタクシー運転手はメーターが壊れてると言って、メーターを倒さない。そこで、市街地までいくらか聞くと、60元と返答が返ってきた。旦那が丹東へ向かう時にウルムチ駅から空港までのタクシーは35元だったし、日本の某ガイドブックにもそう書いていた。「そんなのあり得ない!」と、旦那が走行中のドアを開けると、悪かったとメーターを倒した。すると、今度は途中で市街地方向へ歩いていた荷物を持った漢民族の男性に声をかけ、タクシーに乗せた。数十分走行して彼は降りて、メーターの料金分お金を払った。どうも市街地から少し反れたルートである。そして、私達の目的地であるバスターミナルへ到着すると、メーターに表示されていた料金を私達は何も言わず支払ったが、しゃくな思いをした。こうして到着早々ウルムチの洗礼を浴びせられた。

バスターミナルで夜行寝台バスの乗車券を購入。まだ昼下がりで特にする事がなかったが、ガイドブックで市街地に公園があるのを見つけ、そこへ向かった。バスターミナルから徒歩20分程の距離にある人民公園は、5元払えば都会の喧噪や漢民族のタクシー運転手からも逃れられる閑静な所だった。

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*ウルムチ〜コルラ間長距離バス(2006年1月調べ)
所要時間:約7時間(15~30分の休憩1,2回)
最近高速道路がコルラまで開通したため、今まで10時間だった道のりが短縮された。検問で5,6回以上停車する場合が多いが、車内まではチェックに入らないよう。

ウルムチ発夜行寝台バス(保険料3元)
下段64元/上段74元
※ウルムチには黒龍江路にあるバスターミナルと南郊バスターミナルの2つがあるが、料金は同じ。南郊バスターミナルは長距離タクシー(コルラまで一人120~150元)の客引きが1日中うるさい。
※市内バスでのターミナルアクセス(各1元)
市街地〜黒龍江路のバスターミナル〜ウルムチ駅:44番バス
南郊バスターミナル向かい市バス発着所〜ウルムチ駅〜市街地:1番バス

コルラ発(保険料3元)
快速:110元
10:20 / 12:00 / 14:00 / 16:00
普通:下段77.5元/上段72元
9:30 / 10:30 / 11:00 / 13:00 / 14:00 / 15:00 / 16:00 / 17:00
夜行:下段87.5元/上段78元
21:00
※ウルムチでの到着地は南郊ターミナル
※市内バスでのターミナルアクセス
ターミナル〜市街地:2-2バス/5角
他のバスが1元の個人経営なのに対し、市バスなので半額で綺麗だが、常に混雑している。


Heading to the Silk Road Part 19


Published: 2006/04/20 03:10:27. Tags: Travelogue

22/09/05 (Thu) Urumqi Touchdown

We arrived at the Shenyang沈阳 airport just past 7am, paid 200 yuan to the driver, and checked in at the counter. After spending some time in the departure lobby, we went through the security check and waited some more in the boarding lobby. Except for one white guy, who looked neat and clean and was with a Chinese-looking guide, there were only Chinese business people and tourists waiting there.

We boarded the plane at the scheduled time and took off from Shenyang. Despite what I was expecting, the seats were almost full. Psymeg soon fell asleep and didn't eat his flight meal. I didn't expect to get a meal because I am vegetarian, but they gave me a muslim meal and because the main dish was meat I ate what I could.

When we arrived in Lanzhouå…°å·ž, half of passangers got off the plane and the rest of us got transit passes, and went to the airport b