Enkai: Work and Business Dinners in Japan

If you travel to Japan as a tourist then you probably wont have the opportunity to experience that time-honoured Japanese tradition – the enkai. But if you work in Japan or if you are doing business with Japanese companies then you will most likely have many chances and, to be successful in your dealings, will have to negotiate your way through a myriad of cultural differences.
Today we will look at the first party which runs for about 2 hours and includes all levels of people.
Enkais kick off straight after work which means there is no time to go back to one’s home or hotel room to change. In the countryside they can start as early as 5:30 while in the cities this may be later. Rural business dinners are usually held in traditional Japanese restaurants which means sitting on the floor – on the tatami. It can be surprising to see the mayor of your town sitting on the floor with everyone else. In Tokyo dinners at more western style restaurants tend to dominate.
When you arrive you will be shown to your seat. Kneel on the floor with your knees facing forward. You will soon be told to sit cross legged if you are male. If you are female you can, after a bit, while still kneeling, put your legs out to one side. For this reason women should avoid wearing short skirts as they may feel uncomfortable. Both men and women should be careful to wear socks or stocking that don’t have holes in them.
The meal is normally a set course of fish, seafood and other delicacies. Vegetarian food can be arranged if notice is given ahead of time although, as is common in Japan, a lack of understanding may result in you being served ham, bacon or meat based stocks.
If it is a formal dinner then there will be speeches. If you are asked to make a speech keep it short! Everyone is hungry after a long day. Even if you can only muster a few phrases in Japanese go ahead and use them – they will go down a treat. If speaking in English keep it slow and simple. After a couple of people there will be a special speech – the kampai or cheers speech. This will give the signal to toast everyone. Eating, drinking or smoking prior to this is extremely bad manners.
After the first beer, some people may call for Japanese rice wine – sake – or shochu – Korean potato based spirits (not as strong as vodka and usually served mixed with soda or fruit flavours). This is the time to talk to the people at your table and to try to eat as much as possible as actually eating enough to satisfy can be tricky at these dinners. People will probably comment on your chopstick usage. Just smile and thank them politely.
People will start to move around the room, pouring drinks for each other and making small talk. It is customary for the junior people to do this so depending on whether you are a guest or part of the team will dictate your behaviour. If you are part of the team you should go up to the senior people who will be at the head table and pour drinks for them. Hold the beer bottle with one hand on its bottom and the other hand under the bottle, with the label facing up. Pour and twist off at the end. Japanese are used to more head or bubbles than westerners. It is also good manners to make sure you take a full bottle with you rather than one that is almost empty especially if you are greeting someone like the towns mayor.
After about 2 hours everyone will stand up and gather up their things. Don’t be too surprised at this, you don’t have to finish all the unfinished beer in the room. The first party is over and you will soon be heading to the second party.
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